In researching this subject, I found so many fascinating little tidbits that it’s hard not to try and share them.
So the first bikini-like garments that are noted for women to wear were in female athletes in the Minoan civilization about 14th century BC. That’s pretty amazing because you know that women have had breasts, and they’ve had breasts that have hung and been too large and been uncomfortable for probably since the first cave woman came around. But this is the first historical documentation of a brassiere type garment to help support the female breasts.
In the Western world, at about the 1400s on, women of means abandoned the loose tunics that everyone wore in those days for tighter fitting clothes. And this became the development of the corset, and the corset was used to shape the waist and also to restrain, or conceal, or significantly uplift the breasts.
At this time corsets were desirable to try and create a 17-inch waist. Who can possibly have a 17-inch waist? But there were many opponents of the corset back in the late 1880s and 1900s, including physicians, and of course women themselves. The corsets would lead to all sorts of health problems including respiratory issues, deformed ribs, digestive issues, bladder issues, fainting, lack of mobility.
But what the corset did was to reinforce the idea that women were the weaker sex. And of course they were; they couldn’t defend themselves and they couldn’t even undress themselves or dress themselves because of the corset.
The First Modern Bra
In response to this, slowly but steadily in Western Europe, women, dressmakers in particular, began to develop corset substitutes – something to control the breast appendages. In 1876, a dressmaker by the name of Olivia Flynt was given four patents for corsets that would support larger breasts. They were still corsets. It’s largely thought around 1890 that a woman in France invented the first modern bra. She had a lower corset for the waist, but had an upper bra-like design that had straps on it.
And then in 1910, a New York socialite decided she was going to a debutante ball, and she and her maid fashioned silk hankies and pink ribbons into a bra. This caught on hugely with her friends, and she began to create these early brassieres for her friends, and eventually had the first US patent for a backless bra. However, her husband, discouraged by the fact that she was working outside of the home, basically forced her to sell her patent, and she did to the Warner company. She sold it to them for $1,500 and it’s widely thought that they went on to make over $15,000,000 from this patent.
The Invention of Cup Sizes
They eventually popularized using elastic thread, and also were the very first company to create a system of cups, and this became the model for brassier sizing around the world. And this is important because I think before this, it was just basically a one size fits all. And now we have this cup system. This was quite uniform, really up into maybe the ’80s. And then manufacturers began going off of the accepted, “This an A cup, a B cup, a C cup, a D cup,” and now really, there’s almost no bra uniformity at all.
So when you go out to buy a Sizer Bra, you’re going to find pretty quickly it’s very difficult to compare a Maiden Form, with a Warner, with a Victoria’s Secret because a 36 C won’t be the same across all of the manufacturers.
Just a couple more interesting historical facts. In 1922 a Russian immigrant, Ida Rosenthal, began to design bras for all ages and shapes, taking the Warner concept of the cup, and she called it a ‘Maiden Form’ bra. And the reason she called it Maiden Form is that there was a competitor who had a bra called the ‘Boyish Form’, and this was a bra that flattened the breasts and she said, “I don’t think women want to have flatter breasts.” So hers was Maiden Form to create a more uplifted maiden-looking breast, if you will.
Girdle Burners
And then the last little interesting tidbit, in then late 1960s when the feminists were protesting the Miss America contest, everyone said they were burning their bras. In actuality, they might have thrown their bra into the what they called the Freedom Trash Can, but what they burnt were their girdles. And some pundits have said, if instead of being called bra burners, they were called girdle burners, then the women of the ’60s might have really been much more behind the feminist movement.
Oh, and I have one last little interesting tidbit. In 1977 the first sports bra was invented in, of all places, a costume shop at the University of Vermont theater. You can see it if you go they actually have a little museum and they have it sprayed with plastic so you can see the first one that was designed. And brassieres, and everything relating to brassieres, is now considered to be a $15 billion industry in the United States.
So that’s your little history of the bra.